Lamb shanks French daube-style

There is a story behind the lamb shanks. We were in something of a rush on Sunday and this dish had caught my eye; we wanted to make it but didn't have time to go out to the farm shop to buy the lamb. So we considered buying it in Tesco, where we were doing the weekly shop. We found the meat aisle and a couple were standing in front of the lamb shanks, scrutinising them closely and debating whether an unnamed 'he' would like them or not. I was waiting (im)patiently, shifting from one foot to the other, while they agonized over whether the shanks were good enough for their anonymous recipient, when suddenly the man said to the woman, 'well as long as there are bones in it; dogs love bones, he'll love one' and the woman replied 'but they don't look very nice. I hate the idea of him eating something like that. I think he'd prefer a lamb chop'. Her partner replied: 'okay, we'll get him some lamb chops instead, he'll like chewing on those'. Once I realized that they had rejected the lamb shanks on behalf of their dog, there was no way I was going to buy them for us. We made time and went elsewhere.

I should say here that I love lamb shanks. This was my third opportunity to eat them this autumn/winter and I was eager for the recipe to work. It looked delicious - daube style, according to my Larousse Gastronomique, means braised in red wine and stock and seasoned with herbs - and like all slow-cooked dishes, after an initial effort you're free to do something else. The recipe is below, but here is the outcome:


Images of braised food can rarely capture just how good they taste; this dish was no exception. It was utterly full of flavour; the meat melted in the mouth and the sauce was rich and tasty. My third attempt from delicious. and a bit different from the other two, this is a sort of simple French-style dish and I think I'll try it out on my francophile parents-in-law next time they come to visit. I certainly wouldn't sacrifice it to a dog.


Lamb shanks French daube-style, from delicious.: 5 of the best,

60 ml olive oil
120g mild pancetta, chopped
2 large onions, sliced
6 garlic cloves, crushed
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
12 Frenched lamb shanks [Frenched means that the meat is cut away from the end of the bone]
seasoned flour
1 75 ml bottle red wine
600 ml tomato passata
20 ml beef stock
1 bouquet garni

Mustard mash

1 kg desiree potatoes, peeled
200 ml milk, warmed
50g unsalted butter
2 heaped tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 heaped tbsp dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 17pC/325 F/ Gas mark 2.

Heat 20 ml of the oil in a large ovenproof casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the onion, garlic and carrot and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once the mixture starts to colour, remove and set aside.

Toss the lamb in the seasoned flour. Heat the remaining oil in the casserole dish, add the lamb and fry for 2-3 minutes until lightly golden all over. Set aside. [Note: I would reverse the steps and do the lamb first then the vegetables - it involves less effort in moving ingredients in and out of the pan!]

Return the vegetables to the pan, add the wine and bring to the boil for 2-3 minutes, then add the passata and stock. Season, then add the bouquet garni. Bring back to the boil, then remove from the heat, cover and place in the oven for 2 1/2 hours. Remove and set aside for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the mustard mash. Put the potatoes in a pan of cold, salted water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes until just tender. Drain and mash, then, using a wooden spoon, slowly beat in the warm milk and butter until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper and stir in both mustards.
Use paper towels to dab off any excess fat that may have risen to the surface of the lamb shanks. Serve with the mustard mash.

Note: the shanks can be cooked the day before and refrigerated overnight. Spoon off any fat on the top, heat in a 180C oven, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, until hot.